May 25, 1891
"I started out about five o’clock on the donkey, accompanied by John and Zophellah, our soldier, and rode to the Jewish Cemetery. It is a strange-looking place on the hillside, the graves are raised and the mounds plastered over and whitewashed, some of them have Hebrew inscriptions upon them. The place was full of people and full of color, a wonderfully picturesque scene. The women wore bright colored silk handkerchiefs bound about their brows & a white shawl over their heads & shoulders. Some of them had on full skirts of silk with old-fashioned flounces, others wore the regular Jewish dress, a full skirt with a large triangle of embroidery in one corner, wound around the body, & a broad gold sash."
"When we reached the city gates we found them closed & locked, but as we had a permit to go in & out after night fall, we knocked at the great doors. Presently they swung slowly open & the keeper appeared, in his hand a key at least a foot long and bade us enter. Does that not sound mediaeval?"