May 26, 1891
"This was a great gala day, as the son of the Governor, who has been visiting the Sultan at Morocco for some months returned home. An escort of soldiers with flags & music went out from the city to meet him, and we mounted our horses and with our Moro del Rey to lead the way, followed them to a turn in the road from which we had a fine view of the procession."
"The road was thronged with white-robed people, the women veiled and standing by themselves some what apart..."
"When they had entered the gates of the city the scene was even more bewitching? picturesque, if possible. At the market place the soldiers formed a hollow square & as the Governor’s son and his escort appeared they fired a salute running around the entire square."
"The mountaineers again performed their gun dance or fantasia, & the sound of fifes and drums was every where."
"The roofs of the houses surrounding the square were crowded with the Moorish women in their white draperies, looking down through their veils on to the busy world of life and color beneath. It was indeed a sight to be remembered."
"After luncheon we visited the Jewish Synagogue, a most interesting old place, with unique brass hanging lamps which we much admired. The lamps consisted of a brass ring with chains attached to it & to the chains were other smaller rings in which were inserted glass tumblers to hold the oil and floating wicks. Here and there were brass ornaments holding the chains which we made out after a while to be hands. The "hand of the prophet", the same sign that you see over the doors of Moorish houses to keep away the evil eye. We were seized with a desire to possess one of these lamps if possible and our interpreter finally found one for us in the parlor of a rich Jew who was willing to part with it for a consideration. This was quite a triumph."
"We also went to see some Moorish private houses. Nothing but plain white walls outside, but within, beautiful courtyards paved with tiles, with fountains playing, & richly decorated rooms with cushioned divans along the walls. I was amused to see that their chief treasures apparently were some gilded French chairs upholstered in satin, & some plain kitchen clocks which looked much out of place in their Eastern surroundings."
"Then we wandered about among the Bazaars where we made some purchases & watched the interesting people at their various avocations."
"In the evening we again went into the City, this time to a coffee house where there was music, and where we sat cross legged and drank the delicious thick Moorish coffee."